Members Welcome! Newsletter Welcome! 2005 Back to Fall 2005 Fall Newsletter Michigan Maple Syrup Association

TECHNICAL SUPPORT FOR MAPLE

Do you ship Maple Products to customers? Do you want to ship them easily and reasonably? Run, don’t walk to your local Post Office and ask for O-FRB1 & O-FRB2. They are free shipping cartons. One is 11” X 8 ½” X 5 ½” and the other is 12” X 3.5” X 14”. Nice FREE shipping cartons. Now, fill these boxes with anything you can fit in them and ship them to your customers in California, Hawaii, or Alaska or anywhere in the U. S. or to the Military anywhere for $7.70. A gallon can will fit nicely or 3 half gallons (weighing 19 pounds) or 6 quarts in cans. 12 plastic pound jars of Maple Cream will fit with room to spare. Ship anything for $7.70. If you have need to ship a 12” X 3.5” X 14” slab of Granite or lead you can ship it for $7.70 flat rate. Your customer will love you and the 2 day delivery.

Another tip for shippers. FedEx Ground will ship for at least 10% less than UPS.

If you have any Syrup that isn’t hot packed but stored in drums, rolling the drums every 2 or 3 weeks will keep it from molding or fermenting. It must be at standard density (66 – 68 Brix) however.

L. J. writes: Hi Terry,
I was so excited to see your TSFM column in the newsletter! My husband and I make syrup in H (a small operation) and I tried candy last year for the first time. I had great success and great failures. My most common problem was candy that just didn’t harden-was more like taffy. I haven’t found much information about the process. I’ve used mostly early syrup, checked the boiling point of water, had a quicker boil down with a drop of oil added. I let the cooked syrup (cooked to about 242 degrees) sit unmoved till it cools to 180-190 and stir and pour into molds. I make enough for 40 little Maple leafs at one time. How long or hard should I stir before pouring into the molds?
L. J.

TSFM wrote: Hi L.
I checked the Maple Syrup Producers Manual and they say you should take your Syrup to 248 degrees. You are going 6 degrees lower and that is enough to put you on the border-line for success. Try that change & let me know how it works. One thing you are likely to find is that the Syrup, when you stir it, will react and start changing sooner, and it will give you less time to get it into the molds. You still must wait until you see some change in the product before pouring. How fast you stir may or may not speed up the reaction, I’m not sure. Everything else about your process seems quite sound.
T.D.

L. H. writes Hi Terry,
Thank you for sending us your candy and cream recipes. We will try them out.
We have a question for you. At Clare you were talking about using diatomite to filter the syrup. We do not have a filter press, but use cloth filters. We want to know – do you use both a light and a heavy filter, and how much powder do you put on the filter? We tried it tonight, and the syrup did not seem to filter thru the two thicknesses. What did we do wrong?
L. H.

TSFM wrote: Hi,
First question I have – was the Syrup hot enough? Then, was it cooked beyond 67 Brix? These two items will slow filtering considerably. I mostly used only the heavy orlon filter when I used this method. I now use a filter press. I had used a flat 36” X 36” and the pre-filters I used were not very strong and would tear, so I gave up on them. I believe they make them stronger now. If I were using a cone filter I would pour in at least 2 quarts of DE to start or mix it with the Syrup ready to be filtered. It would depend on how much Syrup I was filtering. Be generous with it. DE will only filter until each particle of it is full of dirt, nitre, sand, or silt. Each particle is like a sponge and it’s function is to trap nitre on the way to the cloth filter thereby extending the usefulness of the cloth.
T. D.

Call 1-800-50MAPLE or E-mail tdmaple@up.net or write with your questions to:
Terry DeLoughary
N17934 Eustis Road
Bark River, MI 49807

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